Essex Sailing: Cruising Along The River Blackwater 

Are you ready to set sail and explore the beauty of the River Blackwater in Essex? If so, you’re going to love this sailing trip from the quaint fishing village of Tollesbury to the serene Blackwater Marina in Maylandsea.

Essex is well known for its sailing and it’s the best way to explore the River Blackwater. We’ll pass the Blackwater Estuary, Mersea Island, the old Ross Revenge – home to the Radio Caroline – and follow the river down to Osea Island before entering Lawling Creek. 

We’ll take you on a sailing adventure that you won’t forget and along the way, we’ll share some helpful tips and information about sailing in Essex and how you can learn to sail too, with the best RYA Sailing Courses Essex has to offer! 

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Sailing Along The River Blackwater At The Essex Coast

a chart of sailing the essex coast

In this post, we’ll share our sailing adventure as we sail from the bustling fishing village of Tollesbury to the sleepy Blackwater Marina in Maylandsea. We’ll also cover topics including:

The River Blackwater, Essex

Did you know that the name comes from an old textile factory near Bocking that used to, unfortunately, drop its waste into the river which turned it black? It’s since been shut down but the name stuck, I always thought it was because it was so muddy! 

The River Blackwater begins at Braintree, where it meanders its way through Coggeshall, Kelvedon, and Witham, (where it meets the River Brain) before continuing on to Maldon.

It’s a captivating river with its estuary located between Tollesbury, Mersea, and Salcott. Known for its picturesque scenery and popular sailing routes, we’ll share the breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and charming waterfront towns as we navigate the River Blackwater. 

Tollesbury Marina

Tollesbury Marina

Tollesbury Marina is the perfect place to dock your boat and explore the village of Tollesbury. It has a superb marina with a charming bistro and is very close to the Tollesbury Wick Marshes Nature Reserve, a popular nature trail that is one of the best things to do in Tollesbury!

Staying At Tollesbury Marina

Wonderfully nestled at the mouth of the River Blackwater Tollesbury Marina was a great place for us to keep our sailing boat, a 30ft ketch. There’s constant water in the marina meaning we were always afloat which is nice; water always looks better than mud!

The day we decided to move our boat, Cricket, was going to be a warm sunny day with an early tide. We packed a big lunch and met my dad, who was going to be captain for the day. A good choice since his experience is second to none, having single-handedly sailed around the world, twice! 

The plan was to make the journey in one day and on the two tides, anchoring at Osea Island while we waited for the evening tide. 

Leaving Tollesbury Marina

Leaving Tollesbury Marina

We set off down the channel just as the tide was turning; it was a beautiful morning for a sail with clear skies and the warm breeze hitting our faces. As we left we passed the Tollesbury Lightship, a retired life vessel which now serves as part of the Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust!

Leaving Tollesbury Marina by sailboat provides a beautiful view of Tollesbury Saltings to the right. It’s an important ecological area of channels and creeks created by the area’s large tidal range.

To the left is Tollesbury Wick Marshes – famous in its own right for nature walks and birdwatching. The area is a nature reserve of just over 240 hectares of coastal freshwater marshes managed by the Essex Wildlife Trust.

At the end of Woodroffe Creek, Mersea Island can be seen over the River Blackwater Estuary, a National Nature Reserve. Across the river is Bradwell power station – definitely an unsightly addition to an otherwise beautiful coastline but a good marker for sailors and the direction we were heading in.

Tollesbury Marina Sailing Tips

Here are some important things to know when staying at Tollesbury Marina:

  • Be careful on the sill when leaving/entering the Marina. When there are neap tides, there are less than six feet of water!
  • Fred’s store in the village will deliver groceries.
  • The Tollesbury Cruising Club has showers, toilets, and a bistro.
  • The Sailing Club welcomes visiting yachtsmen/women.
  • The area is good for local walks and bird-watching.
  • There are a few good local cafes – The Loft and The Tollesbury Cafe.

Sailing The River Blackwater In Essex

Sailing The River Blackwater In Essex

Once we cleared the Blackwater Estuary, we crossed over The Nass – a wetland extending into the estuary. It’s covered at high tide and famous for causing sailors to run aground. So, I recommend following the markers out of the estuary – no shortcuts guys!

We reeled out our jib sail (a triangular sail attached to the foremast at the bow), cut the engine, and headed for the power station.

There was a breezy easterly wind which pushed us along nicely until we reached our marker where we took a gybe and changed direction inland and upriver.

Wondering what a Gybe is? A gybe is when a boat reaching downwind turns its stern through the wind, such that the wind direction changes from one side of the boat to the other.

FYI, this is different from a tack which is basically the same movement but happens when you’re going into the wind. It took me a while to learn there was a difference at all and I still sometimes get confused in the moment…

The sail was wonderful and we had planned it perfectly to catch the wind all the way to Osea Island. We passed Bradwell Power Station, the red hull of the pirate radio ship Ross Revenge and the stunning Essex coast before arriving mid-morning just outside Osea Island.

Anchoring At Osea Island

Anchoring At Osea Island

We arrived at Osea Island around nine-thirty, reeled in the jib, and set the anchor to spend the next few hours relaxing. It was soon lunchtime – peanut butter and jam sandwiches – followed by some coffee and bananas. Can’t go wrong with a PB&J sandwich! 

Osea Island is a 380-acre piece of land with an ancient causeway that gets covered at high tide! Access is therefore tidal-based unless, of course, you are on a sailboat.

There was talk about rowing over to Osea Island but since we weren’t sure if we were permitted access, in the end, we fell asleep.

Osea Island is privately owned with some charming cottages and a large Manor House on its grounds, when we were little we used to have picnics on the sandy beach but since then access is predominately for guests staying on the island.

The Blackwater Marina

Nestled in the quiet village of Maylandsea, The Blackwater Marina is a tranquil destination that’s perfect for sailors looking for a peaceful (and affordable) retreat.

We’ll share the best way to enter Lawling Creek and make your way to The Blackwater Marina.

Entering Lawling Creek

Entering Lawling Creek

Just before 5 pm, we began motoring into Lawling Creek which would take us to the Blackwater Marina. You’re on the lookout for the number 2 marker which is the marker for entering the creek. It’s not clearly marked ‘number 2’ as the charts suggest and is found under the name ‘Maylandsea Spit’ just at the entrance to the channel.

Now this is where the story gets interesting, just after 5 pm we run aground, unluckily sent off course by a wayward buoy, this is of course not the best way to enter Lawling Creek! 

Not panicking since the tide was still coming in and we had an experienced captain with us, with a little bit of luck we would be able to wiggle free. Leaning over the side and rocking her back and forth we put Cricket into reverse and forward again in hopes to swing her around. 

It worked, that was until the engine beeped and cut out. I forgot to mention we had a dingy attached to the stern. All our efforts had been in vain as the attached rope from the dinghy was now wrapped around the propeller. 

This a classic case of what not to do when sailing!

Stuck In The Mud

It happens to the best of us and even with years of experience things can still go wrong. 

So, there we were stuck in the mud and the engine dead. Luckily we were still close to that wayward buoy – which we’ll blame for the mess – and were able to secure Cricket to it. Not a great position to be in; we discussed getting in the water to release the rope but it was cold so no one was excited about that idea!

Back on board, Jack had called the managers of the Blackwater Marina who was on their way to tow us in. It was great news as we didn’t need to leave the boat tied there for the night – always worrying – although it would have likely been okay.

Nevertheless, 15 minutes later we were all tied up at Blackwater Marina ready for some dinner and a nice warm shower before deciding to take the dog for an evening stroll. There are some incredible nature walks around the Maylandsea sea wall which are stunning.

Learn To Sail In Essex

someone up the mast of a sailboat

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sailor, Essex is an ideal place to learn how to sail. If you’re interested, here is a list of the top 11 Sailing Clubs In Essex. Find out what they have to offer and learn about the different types of sailing courses available, so you can choose the one that’s right for you.

Essex Sailing Clubs

RYA Sailing Courses Essex

If you’re looking for a more structured way to learn how to sail, the Royal Yachting Association (RYA) offers a range of sailing courses in Essex. 

If you are interested in learning to sail then I recommend checking out the Royal Yachting Association (RYA) website. Look into the Competent Crew Course to start with. The RYA provide many different courses across a wide range of water-based activities.

Conclusion: Essex Sailing & The River Blackwater

Essex Sailing & The River Blackwater

Sailing along the River Blackwater in Essex is a one-of-a-kind experience that you won’t want to miss. From the stunning scenery to the charming towns and marinas, there’s something for every sailor to enjoy. 

Having our sailboat in Tollesbury Marina and being able to explore the area made it even more fantastic and we recommend visiting too. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner looking to learn, Essex has plenty to offer.

So why not set sail and explore this beautiful part of England?

Author Bio

Abi is the travel blogger behind I’m Going On An Adventure. She focuses on budget travel and adventure, giving first-hand experiences to help her readers plan their perfect travel and make the best memories.

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